Kozushima: A Slow Island Journey into the Wild Edge of Tokyo

There’s a moment that happens on remote islands, somewhere between the first breath of salt air and the instant the mainland slips from your thoughts. Kozushima gave me that feeling before we even arrived. After a little over three hours on the jet ferry from Tokyo’s Takeshiba Port, the island appeared through the haze, coming into view as a steep, green island formed by ancient volcanic activity.

I came with two friends for a slow, nature-filled escape: part hiking trip, part food pilgrimage, part cultural wander. We stayed with Ken and Aya, the warm, big-hearted couple who run Vaca

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